Links Taking Charge Of Dog Training - Be The Master!
By Kelly Marshall
One of the biggest mistakes that dog owners make in training their dog or puppy is to get lazy with expectations and in working with the dog. Often it is easier to just let the behavior slide rather than addressing the problems as they occur. Ultimately this inconsistency will result in teaching the dog that they only need to do what you say when they feel like it, rather than every time you give a command.
Being consistent doesn’t mean that you have to punish your dog, nor does it mean that you have to use punishment methods that are harsh. Generally dogs that are well bonded to their owners only require a gentle correction or a simple “No” and the dog will cease the problematic behavior. Dogs that are punished either by spanking or by being yelled at are far less likely to be well-behaved dogs as they have less of a bond with their owner. Dogs that are treated with kindness, consistency, firmness and love are far more likely to be obedient and compliant pets.
If your training has started to slide or if you are noting that your dog is not consistently following commands try the following suggestions:
· Set reasonable goals for your dog, breaking all commands down into their basic steps and then progressing to more challenging commands. In order for the dog to be able to roll over, for example, he or she must first have mastered the commands of come, sit, down and stay.
· Watch for signs of boredom in your dog or puppy. Not all dogs and puppies enjoy repeating exercises over and over again whereas other dogs thrive on this type of training. Do some research on the breed to find out if it is a repetitive learner or if he or she does best when commands are given a minimum number of times. Generally if the puppy or dog does it correctly the first couple of times in the training but then becomes inattentive or non-compliant they are likely bored with the activity. Try changing the order of the commands, completing the training in a different environment or even teaching new commands.
· Make time for training every day, even with mature dogs. Dogs that don’t have any behavior expectations become less likely to perform when needed, so working a few basic commands every day is important. Try including basic commands in everyday interactions with the dog. For example, when the come to greet you have them sit, shake a paw, or even lie down. Do the same when you are out walking.
· Set a training time. While this may seem a bit artificial if you don’t schedule training time it will often be forgotten. By setting aside five to ten minutes everyday to work specifically with your dog you will notice immediate improvements.
· Provide lots of verbal praise, pets and recognition for appropriate behavior. Give treats randomly and less frequently as the dog begins to respond to praise.
· Last but not least, never give into the dog. It is better to skip a training session than to let the dog get away with poor behavior during the session.
Most trainers agree that one person working with a puppy or dog at a time, at least until they have the commands mastered, avoids confusion for the dog. Once the puppy or dog has learned the commands the trainer can then work with others in the house to help them learn how to work with the dog.
About the Author: Visit Oh My Dog Supplies for unique dog beds and car seat covers for dogs. Source: www.isnare.com
Secrets To Housebreaking And Training Your New Puppy By Colin Philips
You’re the proud owner of a new puppy. Unfortunately, you are also the not so proud owner of a soggy living room carpet. It doesn’t take long to realize this can’t keep happening. So what do you do? It might just be time to housebreak your new pet.
Housebreaking may sound painful but relax. It really isn’t all that difficult. It is your dog’s natural tendency to want to keep its living area clean so once the home is firmly established in your pets mind the problem will be resolved. There are several ways you can assist the process to move faster.
The first thing you want to do is be sure your pet is healthy to start with. If your pet has not been to the vet already, make an appointment.
Your dog should be checked for overall healthiness and for conditions that would make house training difficult, such as cystitis and kidney or bladder dysfunction.
While your pet is visiting the veterinarian, ask to have them checked for worms and parasites also by way of a fecal exam. Also bear in mind the truthfulness behind mothers’ wisdom when she said “You are what you eat.”
A poor quality dog food, in addition to contributing to a poor nutritional state, can cause digestive problems resulting in loose stools, thus contributing to your pup’s inability to control itself.
The most important part of housebreaking your pet is close supervision. This is necessary because your puppy learns by repetition.
If you see your dog showing signs of needing to relieve itself, then immediate action must be taken to get the animal outside to its designated area.
Consistency in training is critical. Do not think being lax because it’s cold or dark outside is acceptable or your pet will adopt these same attitudes.
Close supervision during housebreaking is also necessary because it gives you time to learn your dogs special quirks such as needing to urinate right after eating or a certain action they take prior to soiling the floor so you can watch for these actions and respond in the future.
Also it allows you to correct a situation while it is still fresh in the dogs mind. While being very intelligent creatures, short term memory is not the strong point for most animals of this species and correcting them after more than a few minutes have passed serves no real purpose.
Another key to Housebreaking is giving your dog a limited amount of space. Baby gates across doorways or a pet crate help to make a more confined area and help your pet to recognize this as his living space.
Their natural tendency is to go outside of their own living space to urinate so making this association for your pet will make your job easier. Lining this space with old news papers is a good idea at first as it facilitates a much easier cleanup of any accidents your pet might have.
Also be aware that some surfaces are more pet-friendly than others. Try to confine your new pet to areas of the home with tile or vinyl floors which are much easier to clean. Avoid letting them have access to carpet or hardwood floors which retain odors and can be extensively damaged by an errant pup.
Remember to limit the amount of water your dog has access to at the end of the day as you will otherwise be making a walk with your pet in the middle of the night.
A quick walk outside at regularly timed intervals is advisable to training as this helps your pet to set an internal schedule.
Be certain to use a consistent keyword to tell your pet why you are out in the yard such as “potty” or “toilet” or anything you choose and do not return indoors until they have relieved themselves. Also remember to give praise when your dog relieves itself in appropriate places such as on newspapers or outdoors. Again consistent training is the key.
If your pet does have an accident indoors, correct the animal immediately and then clean the area using non-ammonia based products. Instead use an Enzyme based deodorizer to clean the area and be sure to remove all odor of the accident or the animal will repeat the behavior again.
If you follow these simple rules, your carpets and your new pet should be able to coexist peacefully and relatively free from stress.
About the Author: Dog Health Revealed is an excellent place to find dog links, articles and resource. For more information on Dogs visit: www.doghealthrevealed.com
Source: www.isnare.com
Dogs, Cats and Other People: Sitting On Your Dog And Other Bad Ideas
Matthew 'Uncle Matty' Margolis
Every parent faces certain pivotal moments: the baby learns to walk, the toddler learns to talk, the teenager learns to resent you. And somewhere between gurgling baby and sullen teen, you can expect a sweet little voice to ask, "Can we get a puppy?"
When kids ask that question of their parents, the typical response is, "Who's going to take care of the dog?" At this point, the child eagerly volunteers, fully prepared in that moment to dedicate their life to the care of their dog. ... Parents across the globe have fallen for that one. But it's not just that they fall for it; it's that they avoid the next important question: Who's going to teach the kid how to properly care for the dog?
A few days ago, the mother of a 9-year-old and 12-year-old e-mailed me regarding the family dog - "a pit bull/Labrador mix that has shown aggression toward strangers and some other dogs." She went on to insist there have been no signs of aggression toward her children and offered a litany of inept behaviors this dog has, so far, been willing to endure: "We can pull his ears and tail, take his food, sit on him, etc. with no problems." She then signed off with, "We love this dog, but know we can't risk the safety of others."
Love? That's a brand of love I hope to never know.
Pulling a dog's ears or tail and sitting on it isn't love. It's abuse. And it's asking for trouble.
There's a case right now in Orange County, Fla., where a pit bull bit an 11-year-old boy on the leg. The boy says the dog attacked him for no reason. The dog's owner says the boy was part of a group of kids who were shouting and throwing rocks at his dog while it was chained outside.
There are so many wrongs in that scenario, I'm not sure where to begin. Why was the dog chained up and left outside? Why are kids throwing rocks at dogs? If the dog's owner knew these kids were shouting and throwing rocks at his dog, why didn't he protect his dog from the children, and the children from what anyone with the slightest inkling of dog behavior could predict would happen next?
When my son wanted to do show and tell with our dog, we went to his classroom of 6- and 7-year-olds, and the first question I asked the kids was, "How do you discipline or punish your dog?" The majority of them said we yell and say "no" and "bad dog," and that is what mommy and daddy say because that it how you train dogs. Thank God kids are so honest.
What we have here are several examples of adults not knowing the true nature of their dog, having little or no understanding of dog behavior and allowing, if not teaching, kids to be abusive of animals. If parents mistreat or misunderstand their dog, what are kids going to learn? And how long is the dog going to put up with it?
Think of your dog as a wolf in dog's clothing. Dogs, like wolves, have a set of base instincts wholly separate from those of humans. Dogs are territorial. They have a "chase" instinct. They have a "prey" drive -- stronger in some breeds than others, and in some the drive is so strong they will kill. If your family dog is such a beast, he shouldn't be around children. Ever. Nobody wants to think their dog capable of hurting someone, much less their child, but the consequences of denial can be dire.
The cultural trend toward anthropomorphizing our dogs isn't doing anything for the cementing of the notion that dog is dog. Dressing them up in clothes, buying them bonnets and sweaters, making play dates with their little friends at the park - we're confusing ourselves! Women across the country are convinced that their dogs are no different from their children, to the point that they'll sacrifice the safety of their human offspring to keep the dog! I know, I know, the kid can be a handful. But the kid's the kid. The dog's the dog. And the parent is the parent ... and the responsible party named on the homeowner's insurance policy, if that helps any.
What's interesting to me is that the incidence of dog bites has risen with this trend in anthropomorphism. Ten percent of my calls used to be from people dealing with an aggressive dog. Now it's up to 60 percent. Log on to www.cdc.gov. Click "Injuries." Then click "Dog bites." You'll be shocked.
So, what does it all mean? Sorry, kid. No dog. No way; no day?
I hope not. A dog can be a child's very best friend -- and a teenager's only friend.
It simply means you have to be equipped to answer the very important question: Who is going to teach your child how to understand and care for your dog?
Woof!
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Dog trainer Matthew "Uncle Matty" Margolis is co-author of 18 books about dogs, a behaviorist, a popular radio and television guest, and host of the PBS series "WOOF! It's a Dog's Life!" Read all of Uncle Matty's columns at the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com, and visit him at http://www.unclematty.com. Send your questions to dearuncle.gazette@unclematty.com or by mail to Uncle Matty at P.O. Box 3300, Diamond Springs, CA 95619.
From the ArcaMax Publishing, Cats & Dogs Newsletter:
http://www.arcamax.com/news/catsanddogs/s-169227-487211
Common Cat Mishaps and How to Deal With Them Without Going Crazy By Carolyn McFann
Inevitably, in the life of every pet owner, there are unexpected behavioral problems here and there that need dealing with. It pays to be understanding and patient with your cat, as many times the issue is fully fixable and just a matter of understanding pet behavior. Here are some of the most common problems owners report having with their cats, and suggestions on how to handle them.
Soiling outside the litter box. This is something that many cats will do when the litter box is not kept clean. Like us, they want to relieve themselves in a clean environment. If you have a multiple cat household like I do, buy more than one litter box, use scoopable cat litter and strain it frequently to keep it clean as possible. I have one robotic cat box that automatically cleans a few minutes after one of the cats leaves it. It does a great job but it must be kept clean or it will malfunction. The bottom line is, keep the litter box clean.
Wherever the cat has soiled outside the box, make sure the area is cleaned thoroughly with appropriate cleaner. You can buy cat repellant sprays at the pet store, those work pretty well. If you don't have any, spray the fully cleaned area with potent perfume, cats usually hate perfume and will avoid the area totally to avoid the smell.
Throwing up on the carpet. If you think your cat is sick, ask the doctor by phone if the symptoms are worth bringing in kitty for a checkup. Cats barf, it happens. They get hairballs from cleaning themselves, or they eat too fast and hurl it back up afterwards. If I see blood in the vomit, that is when I know to call the vet and bring kitty in, especially if he isn't eating. Don't delay if that happens. But for everyday barfing up hairballs or overeating, those I prevent as much as I can through their diet. I buy dry food that is for "Sensitive systems" or "Hairball management". Ask a vet other tips on supplementing kitty's nutrition so he won't feel the need to hurl so much. Surely there are more ways to prevent this, but watching my cats' diets has cut down on their needing to vomit, considerably.
You bring home a new cat, and the new cat doesn't like it. Cats are territorial, and it takes some adjustment for everyone when a new pet is added in. Cats naturally react with hissing, maybe growling and swatting one another when really mad. I introduced a new cat into my household a year ago and he instantly got along with one of my cats but hates the other one. But, they have learned to tolerate eachother, and I bet when I'm not looking they may actually be buddies deep down. How I acclimated them to eachother is, at first I used a cat pheramone spray called Feliway in the room, which is a natural calming medium for some cats. It calmed my more hyper cat down somewhat. Also, a spray bottle filled with water works great if they swat at or get nasty with eachother. One good squirt of water, and cats will scatter. Basically, you are re-training them to live with eachother. By rewarding good behavior and quickly, calmly responding to unwanted behavior, they learn to mellow out and co-exist. After 30 plus years of cat ownership, I know all cats can get along eventually. I grew up with cats and we always listened to hissing and mayhem when introducing new ones. If they get really nasty, put one in the bathroom, and let them sniff eachother under the door. Gradually put the two cats together more and more until they are more tolerant of one another. Even now in my household, there is a hiss here or there, or a swat, but nothing catastrophic. Make sure to pet both cats when you bring a new cat in, so the they both see that you "approve" of them. Be patient and don't lose your temper, as anger will make everything worse, not better. Don't stir fear into the picture, stay calm and let them go through their meowfest until they calm down. They will, trust me.
Kitty likes to sharpen his claws on your couch and other things he shouldn't touch. Buy a scratching post, and a cardboard cat scratcher (found in pet stores). Put dried catnip on the scratching post to attract the kitty and he'll be climbing all over it in no time. The cardboard cat scratcher comes already infused with catnip, and absolutely no cat will refuse that thing when they smell it. Put your fingers on the post as they are looking at it, and pretend to scratch. I know, it sounds dumb, but it works. Cats mimic their mothers when they show them to hunt, so they can mimic you, the human parent, as you "scratch" at the post. Praise them profusely when they do what you do and start to scratch. If you can afford it, get a kitty condo or cat tree. There are some great ones on online auctions, brand new. I bought a huge one for half of what it would cost at the pet store chains, online. It was easy to put together, and my cats live on it. If you get one, again, put catnip on it to show them how interesting it is. My cats live on theirs. It keeps them off the couch, and gives them something to watch birds from (I put mine next to a large window).
Your cat likes to jump up on tops of things he shouldn't, such as shelves or the tv. If the space is small, get a semi-tacky thick roll of painters' tape (it's sticky but not overly so) or double sided sticky tape. Put strips of it on top of the items you know he will jump on. When he jumps up on it, believe me, he will not want to do it again. My one cat loved jumping on top of my stereo speakers, but when I did this, he stopped doing it forever after one encounter with the tape. The idea is to make the environment unpleasant to the kitty, and that should do the trick quickly. For larger spaces like a chair seat, buy a Purr Pad at the pet store, which gives a mild shock when kitty jumps on the area. It comes in different sizes and doesn't hurt the kitty, just shows him that the place he jumped on isn't for him. Or, tape some balloons on the surface of a place the kitty wants to frequent. One claw touching those balloons and he won't be wanting to go there again.
These are some tips my family and I have used for years to train our cats. Some cats are more mischevious than others, but that is part of their charm. Cats are a joy to watch, just watch a kitten play, it is fun to see such unbridled energy and excitement. Just show them what behaviors you expect of them, since they won't know until you guide their way. Do it with love, and patience. And they will reward you with unconditional love for life.
| Carolyn McFann is a scientific and nature illustrator, who owns Two Purring Cats Design Studio, which can be seen at: http://www.cafepress.com/twopurringcats . Educated at the Rochester Institute of Technology in New York, Carolyn is a seasoned, well-traveled artist, writer and photographer. She has lived and worked in Cancun, Mexico, among other interesting professional assignments in other countries. Clients include nature parks, museums, scientists, corporations and private owners. She has been the subject of tv interviews, articles for newspapers and other popular media venues. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carolyn_McFann |
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